(Paris) Black, long dresses, tuxedo trouser suits and sumptuous faux fur coats: the Saint Laurent woman will be elegant without provocation next winter.
Posted at 4:51 p.m.
The house’s artistic director, Belgian Anthony Vaccarello, broke away from his sexy glam aesthetic on Tuesday evening for a poetic parade at the foot of the glittering Eiffel Tower, on the second day of women’s ready-to-wear week in Paris.
PHOTO JULIEN DE ROSA, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE
Anthony Vaccarello
French actresses Catherine Deneuve, Charlotte Gainsbourg and Béatrice Dalle, Spanish Rossy de Palma and model Eva Herzigova were in the front row.
The transparency dear to the designer is offset here by wide and thick coats.
Long dresses envelop the body while the tuxedo, Saint Laurent’s flagship piece, is wider.
On collars or long coats, furs are omnipresent. Last label of the luxury holding Kering to have given up animal furs in September, Saint Laurent presents fake, more real than life.
The collection takes inspiration from Art Deco with stacks of gold and silver bracelets, worn on both arms.
“An understated matte palette suggests a moment of reflection,” the house writes in the show’s note of intent.
“Proving that restraint doesn’t have to be joyless, this is a poetic and quiet presentation,” he adds.
An aesthetic that does not ring false when the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion called on Monday to “live the parades with the necessary gravity” in the face of the war led by Russia in Ukraine “which plunges the people Ukrainian in terror and pain”.