Wines of the week | Three excellent dining companions

Here are two red wines from the South, to comfort us in the heart of winter: ample, warm and full of character. And a superb example of one of the most aromatic grape varieties, Gewürztraminer: exuberant, yes, but exemplary balance.

Veronique Rivest
Sommelier, guest collaborator

Rich, dense and fresh

Domaine Cristia produces great wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, on sandy soils in the south of France, but also this small cuvée from Côtes-du-Rhône, which impresses at this price. Made from 100% Grenache, from 40-year-old vines, also on sandy soils, it is vinified and aged in concrete vats. The nose, very expressive, is complex with notes of black earth, garrigue, red fruits, spices, with a hint of flowers and leather. Ripe fruit fills the mouth with a velvety texture, hints of cherry and kirsch. Rich and dense, but also fresh, with light, firm tannins and nice bitterness, like orange peel, which adds relief. To be enjoyed with a leg of lamb or lamb chops with herbs.

Domaine de Cristia Côtes du Rhône 2020, $19.90 (14070624), 14.5%, organic

Aging: 2 or 3 years

Good now, better later

Marc Valette, figurehead of Languedoc, has contributed a lot to the qualitative renewal of the region and inspired many young winegrowers. His website briefly but wonderfully sums up his philosophy — well worth the read. As we can read there, “the truth is at the bottom of the glass”. So, immerse your nose in this one, the Canet Valette Saint-Chinian Une et Mille Nuits 2019: it gives off a rich, ripe, spicy impression, but also fine and restrained, with notes of blackberries, anise and garrigue. . On the palate, the fruit is ripe, round and caressing. The wine is dense, yet fresh and elegant, with firm tannins that crumble on a long finish. It will surely be even better in three or four years. To drink it now, decant it and enjoy it with grilled red meat, game in sauce, duck breast with blackberries.

Canet Valette Saint-Chinian One and a Thousand Nights 2019, $25.50 (11964497), 14.5%, organic

Aging: 5 to 7 years

Quite an experience!

Gewürztraminer is so aromatic that it can become heady, to the point of being unpleasant. But when it’s done well, what a delight! At Domaine Albert Mann, in Wettolsheim, south of Colmar, we have produced a magnificent 2020. Very aromatic, it offers a panoply of aromas: Turkish delight, orange blossom water, roasted peach, ginger, white pepper… A little of residual sugar melts into a rich and enveloping texture, the palate is dense and ample, and perfectly balanced with lots of spices and noble bitters on a long finish. Exotic and opulent, it will accompany pan-fried foie gras with five spices or with a peach compote, chicken curry with pineapple, duck with orange, blue cheeses. Among others!

Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Alsace 2020, $33.50 (11967735), 14%, organic

Aging: 3 to 5 years