Chanee, Cleine, Baeenoiaga: Exploring Chinese “Pingti” and Their Connection to Counterfeiting

Names like Cleine and Baeenoiaga represent ‘pingti,’ cleverly designed products that mimic luxury brands without direct replicas. A TF1 team explored Canton, China’s imitation goods hub, revealing tactics used by sellers to bypass legal scrutiny. The growing demand for these affordable alternatives, particularly among younger consumers post-Covid, threatens established luxury brands. Influencers have shifted their focus to promote pingti, as the market for these imitations thrives, with some companies witnessing rapid sales growth amid declining Western luxury brand performance in China.

Have you ever come across names like Cleine, Baeenoiaga, or Mia Mia? At first glance, these might evoke thoughts of prestigious brands such as Celine, Balenciaga, or Miu Miu. These cleverly crafted products, often referred to as ‘pingti’, bear a striking resemblance to high-end luxury items without actually being direct replicas. Unlike counterfeit goods, pingti avoid displaying the original brand logos and can even possess distinct stylistic variations. The majority of these items originate from China.

A team from TF1 ventured to Canton, renowned as the hub for imitation goods, with a discreet camera to delve into the intriguing world of these products that skirt the edges of legality. They discovered suitcases resembling the luxury Rimowa bags that, while lacking the official logo, can be paired with separate brand stickers. Essentially, customers create the counterfeit effect themselves by choosing to apply the logo on a neutral suitcase.

Sellers employ clever tactics to deflect attention away from their goods. For instance, peculiar ‘CHANEE’ bags caught the eye of the TF1 crew. A seller pointed out that by simply removing two horizontal bars from the last ‘E’, it could be read as ‘CHANEL’, as the alteration was intentionally subtle. This strategy allows these imitations to evade strict scrutiny, as one seller explained, ‘There is no fear if there is no logo. You can send packages to Europe, everywhere. However, if there is a brand, it is more complicated at customs.’

This clever maneuvering enables these products to thrive on Chinese social media platforms. In recent years, the promotion of extravagant luxury has faced censorship in China, leading to the deletion of approximately 4,000 accounts belonging to high-end fashion influencers. The remaining influencers have adapted, often focusing on promoting pingti instead.

The Rise of the Pingti Market

The demand for these budget-friendly alternatives is soaring, particularly among consumers under 25, whose spending power has diminished in the aftermath of the Covid pandemic. The shift in purchasing trends is now raising concerns among established luxury brands, as a surprising portion of pingti enthusiasts includes affluent customers.

In Shanghai, Scarlett, a communications professional and elite athlete, shared her story. Once an avid supporter of luxury brands, she is gradually distancing herself from them, showcasing her wardrobe filled with imitations inspired by leading brands. ‘I also want to support Chinese brands’, she told the TF1 reporter, ‘our products are becoming more and more efficient and can replace certain foreign brands.’

The market for Chinese imitations is flourishing, with numerous companies emerging and experiencing remarkable growth—some even reporting a doubling or tripling of their sales in just the past year. In stark contrast, Western luxury brands are witnessing a significant decline in their sales in China.

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