This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
In the early 1990s, the Okanagan Valley established itself as the rising star of the Canadian wine scene. Its breathtaking landscape and the promise of a terroir capable of making great wines led to the construction of several estates in a short time. More than 30 years later, the region is renowned, but many vineyards are now for sale. Wildfires and winter frosts wreak havoc, reducing production to such an extent that it becomes increasingly difficult for vineyard owners to survive economically.
An annual risk
Fires threaten British Columbia every year. Flames are generally not very dangerous for the life of vines, because they act as a barrier against fire. However, prolonged exposure of grapes to smoke proves harmful, having a major consequence on the taste profile of the wines produced.
Several molecules (such as guaiacol, 4-methylguaiacol and ortho-cresol) are involved in a phenomenon referred to as “smoke taste”. Research, notably carried out by the Australian Wine Research Institute, has made it possible to identify winemaking techniques which reduce the negative impact of these molecules on wine. We recommend, for example, rinsing the grapes to eliminate ash dust, maintaining the integrity of the berries during the harvest to prevent the juices from coming into contact with the skins, rigorous sorting excluding damaged grapes. which can accentuate the smoky taste, whole-cluster pressing for white wines to extract less aromatic components and a reduction in the contact time between the juice and the grape skins. There is also the use of reverse osmosis which reduces the smoke taste.
Beyond the practices, the challenge also lies in the fact that the molecules responsible for smoke odors are odorless when bound to sugars, but they become odorous once the molecules dissociate. A wine can therefore contain these compounds without showing a smoky taste, then, several months later, develop unpleasant aromas as the molecules are released. Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict whether this phenomenon will occur. Winemakers hope that research will find solutions but in the meantime, when the smoke taste is too pronounced, they are faced with the difficult decision not to market the wines. This is also what the Blue Mountain domain did in 2021.
Winter frosts
Another recurring phenomenon in recent years is winter frost. Unlike Quebec, where hybrid grape varieties and the use of geotextiles allow vines to withstand extreme cold, the Okanagan did not build its vineyard in anticipation of extreme temperatures. Last January, when the thermometer fell below -25°C for three days, 90% of the harvest was lost and 15% of the vines were damaged. Plants that survived will not produce this year because the fruit buds have died. This is the second time in a short time that the region has suffered a destructive frost: in December 2022, a cold snap caused a loss of 58% of crops.
These episodes have disastrous economic consequences. Séverine Pinte, oenologist and winemaker at Le Vieux Pin and La Stella vineyards, expressed her concerns at the international Tasting Climate Change conference in Montreal last January. Syrah, which is the flagship grape variety of the Le Vieux Pin estate, is particularly sensitive to winter frost. She is thinking about future practices to adopt, in particular the choice of grape varieties and the use of geotextiles. Others, like David Paterson, general manager at Tantalus Vineyards, wonder if hybrid grape varieties, like Marquette, might reduce the risk of losses.
Glimmer of hope
Despite the difficulties of recent years, the outlook is not entirely gloomy. As Elizabeth Wolkovich, associate professor at the University of British Columbia and grape specialist, pointed out in an RDI report, this extreme cold is an anomaly. In addition, a study published in Nature Reviews Earth and Environment on March 26, 2024, the first to compile some 150 publications, indicates that if global warming exceeds +2°C, certain regions could benefit from these climatic changes, notably British Columbia.
For the prospects of hope to materialize, it is imperative to reduce carbon emissions and review ways of doing things to adapt to new realities. Fortunately, several wineries, such as Tantalus Vineyards and Le Vieux Pin, are leading the way. In this optimistic spirit, the next post will have a lighter tone; we will suggest wines to accompany the tomatoes.
Buying bottles from producers severely affected by climate change is one way to support them. Here are three vintages to celebrate Thanksgiving.
Martin’s Lane Naramata Ranch Vineyard Riesling 2019, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia VQA
Shane Munn proves once again that Okanagan Rieslings hold a place alongside the great whites of the world. Coming from vines planted in 1976, this vintage offers us a dry, concentrated and compact wine, with great vitality. Juicy notes of white peach and lime zest intertwine, making the angular profile more approachable. The hint of toasted nuts and oil adds complexity and depth. A delight with cheese fondue. (Carding potential: 8 to 10 years) $60.75 — SAQ code 14573475
Quails’ Gate Pinot Noir 2022, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia VQA
It’s always a joy to find a good pinot noir for less than $40! Fresh and crisp, with expressive notes of wild strawberry and black cherry punctuated by aromas of peony, thyme and vanilla. A harmonious mouthfeel with silky tannins that caress the taste buds. Perfect for turkey. $36.00 — SAQ code 11889669
Le Vieux Pin Syrah Cuvée Violette 2022, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia VQA
It’s almost a crime to open Séverine Pinte’s Syrahs when they are young; They age so well! Bewitching with aromas of red plum, white pepper and smoked meat and a freshness on the palate reminiscent of Crozes-Hermitage syrahs. The tannins are firm but elegant and frame the generosity of the fruit. A natural for game. (Card potential: 10 to 15 years) $59.50 — SAQ code 15021550
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