This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
The new From the Vine to the Glass section in the Plaisirs section will take into consideration sustainable approaches in the wine sector. It will demystify several concepts around eco-responsible practices related to the development and marketing of a wine. This will be an opportunity to introduce you to delicious wines, created by winemakers driven by the desire to offer a better land to future generations; producers who dare to question themselves to overcome obstacles, whether by instituting changes or preserving ancestral methods.
Choosing this angle of approach means wanting to respond to the transformations taking place in the world of wine. The goal of the upcoming articles is not to overwhelm you with information or to make you anxious, but to give you hope, to allow you to make an informed choice so that you can be part of the solution. Because buying is acting.
Adapting to climate change
Climatic hazards have a direct impact on viticulture and wine production. Phenomena such as winter fires and frosts make it difficult for some vineyard owners, in Canada and elsewhere, to survive economically. You can give up or roll up your sleeves. Those who remain find solace in finding hope in solutions.
From the vine to the glass, every decision is important if we want to build a sustainable future, both in production and in marketing. From an environmental point of view, we must evaluate what can be put in place to help the vine adapt to climate change so that it can flourish in a sustainable ecosystem. These include, among other things, the location of the vineyard, the selection of grape varieties, the type of agriculture to recommend, water management and biodiversity. The resurgence of insects and diseases is another consequence of climate chaos, which raises several questions about the techniques to favor.
Then there are all the strategies to adopt to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Consider, for example, the container, which alone can represent up to 40% of a wine’s carbon footprint. There is also transportation, energy and waste management to consider. Finally, to be sustainable, we must also ensure the profitability of the product, the well-being of employees and increase the resilience of communities in the face of climate change.
Educated buyers
Despite the darkness, there is a glimmer of hope on the horizon, if only in the growing interest in sustainable products, including wine. The renowned firm Wine Intelligence has published several statistics to this effect in recent years. A 2019 survey conducted in major markets in the United Kingdom, Canada and the United States shows that, while consumers are more familiar with organic farming, they are more likely to select a wine designated as sustainable. According to the same survey, nine out of ten people, across all age categories, would be willing to pay up to three dollars more per bottle if it had a sustainable certification.
The current economic situation, however, may discourage a wine lover from paying more to support ecological practices. At the same cost, however, we opt for the product with sustainable connotations. Think of hotels that educate guests to use their towels more than once; it is effective, the gesture is simple, concrete and immediately gratifying. However, selecting a bottle that echoes sustainable values is a challenge, as there are so many criteria to consider — and these are rarely listed concisely on the bottle.
We should not wait for a winemaker to have a perfect track record before commending his work. The path to responsible production is full of challenges and dilemmas. Several local artisans have paved the way for the new generation, and we will salute their courage in next week’s article.
In the meantime, here are three suggestions for wines from producers who adopt sustainable practices, which will be covered in more depth in future editions.
Sumarroca Brut Nature Gran Reserva Cava 2020, Spain
The Sumarroca family’s environmental commitment is remarkable. Everything is thought out, from calculating the carbon footprint to water management, to using lightweight glass bottles. Composed mainly of indigenous white grape varieties, such as parellada, xarel-lo and macabeu, with a touch of chardonnay, this Cava is made using the traditional method, the highest quality. Here we find a dry wine with an elegant mouth with a lovely creamy texture. Notes of yellow apple, lemon and brioche intermingle and are carried by the finesse of the bubbles. A formidable complexity at this price! Perfect for an aperitif or with sushi.
$18.90 – SAQ code 13408929
Unico Zelo Fiano River Sand 2022, Australia
This house is transparent about its environmental commitments. On the Unico Zelo website, you can consult their balance sheet as well as the evolution of their objectives. They also favor fiano, because it requires less water than international grape varieties. Renowned for its whites in Campania, fiano has found a second home in Australia, and Unico Zelo offers us a delicious version. The wine is dense with a beautiful amplitude, but thanks to its salinity, its 12% alcohol content and its juicy acidity, it remains fresh. A harmonious wine with notes of honey, yellow plum and chamomile, which ends on noble bitterness of preserved lemon. Delicious with grilled white fish or roast chicken with lemon.
$25.55 – SAQ code 15289636
Saint Cosme Côtes du Rhone 2022, France
Owner Louis Barruol bans synthetic products and experiments with plant covers, because they reduce soil temperatures during hot weather, and therefore water loss. A useful practice, given that droughts are a challenge in the region. Made from 100% Syrah, this Côtes-du-Rhône is delicious, with supple and fine tannins, and a profile marked by notes of black fruits. Since Barruol keeps the stalks during vinification, there are peppery and herbaceous notes that bring freshness and tone to the palate. A natural match with grilled lamb and beef.
$20.20 – SAQ code 11455342
This content was produced by the Special Publications Team of Dutyrelevant to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part in it.