(Napa) The Silverado Trail is one of the most famous wine routes in the world of wine. It runs through the Napa Valley from north to south, bordered by prestigious wineries such as Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Joseph Phelps Vineyards or Darioush.
The tourist route was anything but bucolic in the fall of 2017, however, when forest fires devastated the Signorello estate.
“The fire did not affect the vines,” said the owner, Raymond Signorello. “But there was nothing left of the buildings.”
Today, a few blackened trees on the slopes of Mount Atlas are the only relics of the terrible fire. Seven years after the events, the Signorello estate is inaugurating its new facilities this summer. Its owner has followed the latest recommendations to the letter in order to never again be affected by the flames.
PHOTO ALEXANDER RUBIN, PROVIDED BY SIGNORELLO ESTATE
A retention basin increases water availability at the Signorello estate.
The 12,000 square foot winery was dug into the rock. Electrical wires were buried to avoid increasing the risk of fire. The vineyard is also powered by solar energy to be independent of the electrical circuit, and a retention basin was created to increase water availability when needed.
The idea was to build a building that would be as fire-resistant as possible, but also to make the vineyard more sustainable and ecological. When I founded the estate in the 1980s, fire and smoke were not a threat. We adapt!
Raymond Signorello, owner of the Signorello estate
According to the California Office of Environmental Health Hazard Assessment, 4.2 million acres were destroyed by fire in 2020, more than double the area burned in previous years in the state.
In solution mode
PHOTO ALEXANDER RUBIN, PROVIDED BY SIGNORELLO ESTATE
Rows of Cabernet Sauvignon vines at the Signorello estate
Steven Ostoja is the director of the California Climate Center at the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Research Service and Environmental Institute. Speaking at the U.S. Sustainable Wine Summit in April, he argued that wildfires are far from being a solved problem.
According to him, the temperature will increase by 5 to 9 degrees Celsius by 2070 in California. Satellite images show that water reserves are declining in the state. The researcher also observes that insects that attack grapevines reproduce more quickly in a now warmer climate.
Yet Mr. Ostoja remains optimistic.
Practices are changing. For example, winegrowers are promoting plant cover between the vines. This practice helps to lower the temperature in the vineyard by 10 to 15 degrees, and it can retain the soil if there is heavy rain.
Steven Ostoja, director of the California Climate Center
Grassing between vines is one of 230 practices outlined in California’s sustainable agriculture code. Managing wildfire risks is another, says Jodi Wilson, director of certification for the California Alliance for Sustainable Viticulture.
East of Napa Valley, the Lodi region is known for its intense heat. The Lange family has been making wine there for more than 100 years. In recent years, they have changed their ways, particularly when it comes to water management.
On the estate, large reservoirs similar to swimming pools are used to collect and then filter waste water.
PHOTO KARYNE DUPLESSIS PICHÉ, SPECIAL COLLABORATION
Randall Lange of LangeTwins Vineyard. In the back, a pool of reclaimed water.
“We collect the water that was used to wash our tanks and use it to irrigate our fields,” explains one of the owners, Randall Lange. “Our buildings are powered by solar energy.”
With a total production of one million bottles, the LangeTwins estate has the means to achieve its sustainability ambitions. However, smaller winegrowers are also participating in the change.
Such is the case for Steve Matthiasson. Originally from Winnipeg, he left the Canadian Prairies to pursue his dream of making wine in Napa. The winemaker is the author of California’s first manual on sustainable winemaking practices, published in 1999. Not surprisingly, he doesn’t use any chemicals in his 50-acre vineyard. There are huts in each row to help birds control insects, and grass grows between the rows.
PHOTO KARYNE DUPLESSIS PICHÉ, SPECIAL COLLABORATION
Steve Matthiasson, in his vineyards in Napa
Like most California winemakers, Steve Matthiasson grows Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. He’s also experimenting with other varieties in an effort to make lighter wines and find varieties that adapt to the climate. And he’s not alone. At the renowned Spottswoode Winery, winemaker Molly Sheppard says varieties from Portugal and Spain, regions known for their extreme climates, are also being tested.
“We are learning faster that the climate is changing,” Steve Matthiasson says optimistically.
A vast majority of California winemakers are taking part in the changes. The proof: nearly 65% of California wines are produced according to the rules of sustainable development and 85% come from a certified vineyard.
These new ways of doing things aren’t just good for the planet, notes Wine Market Council President Liz Thach. Like the rest of the world, Americans are drinking less alcohol. And studies show that the new generation is very interested in the eco-friendly measures that wineries are implementing. Saving the planet and countering the decline in wine consumption is a way to combine business with pleasure.
To drink
Classic Cabernet Sauvignon
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
Alexander Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
The Sonoma region has suffered greatly from wildfires in recent years. The hills around Alexander Valley Winery are a testament to that. But that’s not why the Wetzels built their winery underground. “It’s to keep a consistent temperature for winemaking and aging,” Wetzel says. “It often gets up to 100 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer.” But the Wetzels have implemented a host of measures, such as restoring riparian areas, to protect themselves from wildfires. They’ve also invested in solar energy and are producing certified organic wines to help make their wine more sustainable. Their Cabernet Sauvignon is a signature wine with spicy notes and a full-bodied structure. The addition of Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot is noticeable in the complex, mouthwatering finish.
Alexander Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 (15326708), $40.00
Consult the SAQ file
Pioneer
PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE SAQ WEBSITE
Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Central Coast
The Wente family has been making wine in the Livermore Valley since 1883. They are involved in all aspects of viticulture to make it more sustainable. In an effort to reduce their carbon emissions, they helped create the first electric tractor for winemakers. In 1912, the Wente family selected a clone of Chardonnay in France. Today, it represents 75% of all Chardonnay plants in California. Based on this grape, their Morning Fog cuvée highlights the areas of California that, thanks to the coolness coming from the Pacific Ocean, are more temperate. It’s a success! Just the right amount of cream and oak, this white is perfumed and round.
Wente Vineyards Morning Fog Central Coast (10754084), $20.95
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New generation
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Martha Stoumen Post Flirtation 2023
At 11% ABV, it’s hard to believe this white comes from California. Winemaker Martha Stoumen accomplished this feat by blending Roussanne, Marsanne, Colombard, and Muscat, all grown in the foothills of the Sierra Mountains. The winemaker is part of a new generation whose vision is to minimize intervention in wines and ban pesticides in the field. More than 90% of the grapes she vinifies also come from rain-fed vineyards. This cuvée doesn’t come cheap, but its aromas of pear, orange, and fresh herbs meld into a mouthful so juicy and delicious, you’ll forget the price.
Martha Stoumen Post Flirtation 2023 (15097482), $46.50
Consult the SAQ file