This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
Once a working-class neighborhood, then left to its own devices, Saint-Henri, in Montreal’s west end, is now unrecognizable to anyone who hasn’t set foot there in the past few years. Crowded restaurants and trendy terraces have set up shop there by the dozen, making Saint-Henri a gourmet destination in its own right.
I lived in Saint-Henri about fifteen years ago. At the time, we lived there because of its proximity to the Lachine Canal and the low rents. But that was it, because there was nothing to do. It was downright difficult to invite friends there, who found the neighbourhood “far from everything”.
“Things have changed so much!” assured me Emili Bellefleur of Tourisme Montréal, as she described the city’s new features. “Even the media abroad are talking about Saint-Henri’s culinary offerings. Quebecers need to discover them too!”
Manon Dubreuil, Director of Operations at the Société de développement commercial (SDC) Les Quartiers du Canal, echoes similar sentiments. The organization represents merchants in the bustling areas of Saint-Henri, Little Burgundy and Griffintown, which are located along the canal, while promoting their offerings. Her organization lists more than 650 member businesses, most of which are located on Notre-Dame Street, including 79 “drink and eat” addresses in Saint-Henri. These include bakeries, pastry shops, restaurants, cafés, ice cream counters, microbreweries and bars. “I’ve been here for five years, and it’s crazy how much has changed since I arrived!” adds Manon Dubreuil.
Happiness for all occasions
After walking three blocks alongside her, I have no doubt that on Notre-Dame Street, between Atwater and Bourget, we will have come across many places worth a visit. First, the Atwater Cocktail Club, a hidden bar “where the cocktails are incredible!” Then, Foiegwa, a restaurant where they serve Americanized French classics, and the very beautiful Eera Café and art gallery, where they want to promote Persian culture. And finally, 9 Tail Fox, whose Korean cuisine is praised by Manon Dubreuil, Sumac, with a Middle Eastern menu, and Rasoï, a “cozy little Indian restaurant.” Most of these places did not exist a few years ago. They now rub shoulders with older establishments whose reputations are well established. This is the case of Café Saint-Henri, one of the first micro-roasters in the city, opened in 2011, or Greenspot. This snack bar has been located on rue Notre-Dame since 1947 and is “still very popular,” according to the SDC’s director of operations.
“That’s what makes the neighborhood beautiful,” she emphasizes, “this mix of old and new, of the first residents and those who have just arrived.” When asked to explain the excitement that animates Saint-Henri, Manon Dubreuil talks about strong personalities who loved their neighborhood and invested in it. She cites, among others, brothers Alex and Mat Winnicki who own the essential Satay Brothers, inspired by Singaporean street food, or the Barroco Group, which owns several addresses in the area, including Fugazzi Pizza and the new Bon Délire, further west.
In the same vein, let’s not forget Arthurs Nosh Bar, opened in 2016 and known beyond the neighbourhood for its brunches and sandwiches (you have to try the salmon gravlax one). The Jewish-inspired restaurant welcomes locals, but also curious visitors from Toronto, Los Angeles and Europe, says co-owner Raegan Steinberg. She landed in Saint-Henri by chance, but hasn’t regretted her choice since. “When we arrived, there were two or three businesses around us, but today, it’s lively and we’re like a family. I love the area!” she says, seated at a table on the terrace, which was packed when I passed by.
Diagonally, BarBara Vin has quickly become another classic. “Caffè, pasta, vin,” announces the menu header. “We serve antipasti, sandwiches, fresh pasta, cheeses, desserts… basically, we offer everything that goes well with wine, which is central to our menu,” says Catherine Draws, part of the quintet behind the establishment. Are these many restaurants in the neighborhood a threat? “Not at all! If you’re alone in your corner, people don’t come. And the new ones make you wonder if we’re still doing things right,” she says in her bright restaurant.
Shortly before the end of the tour, Manon Dubreuil will convince me to choose an ice cream at Dalla Rose, considered by some to be one of the best ice cream shops in town. She will give me the addresses where to try excellent tacos. She will take me to the terrace surrounded by pear trees at Elena and Club Social PS, where they serve pizza and wine. She assures me that next time, I must not miss the Pôle des saveurs at the Atwater market, where a dozen restaurateurs have a counter during the summer.
Certainly, times have changed. Now, Saint-Henri is not far from anything.
Thanks to Tourisme Montréal and the SDC Les Quartiers du Canal for organizing the day
5 classics not to be missed
5 new things to discover
This content was produced by the Special Publications Team of Dutyrelevant to marketing. The writing of the Duty did not take part in it.