This text is part of the special Pleasures notebook
The idea of eating raw vegetables is not new. Neither is accompanying them with a dip with local flavors! For centuries, the raw vegetable dish has been designed to celebrate the freshness of freshly picked produce while adding more plants to your diet. We trace the history of this colorful dish that, over time, has carved out a place of choice on the summer tables of Quebecers.
To understand the origin of the raw vegetable dish accompanied by a sauce, culinary historian Amélie Masson-Labonté points to the tradition of the Mediterranean basin – Spain, Portugal, the Maghreb countries, France and Italy – “which is very focused on vegetables eaten raw”.
For example, there is the famous bagna cauda Piedmontese, this hot dip made with oil, anchovies and garlic, served with seasonal vegetables since medieval times. In a spirit of sharing, and in order to celebrate the end of the harvest or grape harvest, guests were invited to dip their freshly picked raw vegetables in this sauce that has become famous in this part of the country.
Amélie Masson-Labonté cites other versions of the raw vegetables and dip duo, such as the pinzimonio Italian (olive oil, lemon, salt, pepper) or Provençal aioli (egg yolk, garlic, olive oil), which have also existed for centuries.
At the Quebec table
The arrival of this plate as we know it in Quebec would have occurred early in the 20th century.e century, according to the culinary historian. “Families generally had an extra vegetable garden which provided them with radishes, cucumbers, peas, carrots and beans in season,” recalls Amélie Masson-Labonté. She also points out that before the popularization of refrigerators in the 1950s, most raw vegetables were only eaten in summer.
“At that time, a certain discourse on nutrition promoted the consumption of raw vegetables,” notes Amélie Masson-Labonté during her research. She was able to consult several government documents as well as articles, which explained to women, then responsible for preparing meals, that most vitamins and minerals are eliminated during cooking.
At the same time, in provincial homemaking schools, where young girls are trained to become good wives, they teach the preparation of raw vegetable platters. In the 1940s, it was the arrival of the first Canada’s Food Guidewhich also promotes the consumption of raw vegetables.
Dip recipes would not become popular until the following decades. Not yet knowing how to accompany raw vegetables, Quebecers served them with… butter!
The chef caterer’s opinion
In order to accompany the meal (sandwiches not crusts!) with a few portions of vegetables, the raw vegetable platter is often essential in catering services.
Amine Nasrallah, executive chef of the high-end Chaud Avant, admits that the raw vegetable plate and dip are still very popular with his customers, keen “to have that option for their vegetarian guests”. In his opinion, “some people still order a platter of raw vegetables to help fill a table and because it’s not very expensive.” However, he also notes that “others are truly foodies who appreciate good fresh vegetables”.
He makes a point of presenting gourmet and modern versions on his menus, which mainly focus on local and seasonal products. Summer is his favorite time for the most beautiful raw vegetable dishes. “In July, we reach a peak for local vegetables,” says Amine Nasrallah with excitement. He currently offers a whipped labneh and raw vegetables as well as a plate of seasonal vegetables and their miso ranch sauce.
His advice for putting together the best platter? “Vary the textures (lightly blanched beans and asparagus, crunchy carrots, juicy zucchini, delicious cucumbers, peppers of all colors), have fun with the dip, and add lots of fresh herbs,” he recommends. He also suggests experimenting with different cuts (julienne, wedge-shaped, sliced), and taking care with the presentation of the vegetables (grouping them by color, for example).
Because according to him, to make a successful raw vegetable platter, you need not only good seasonal vegetables, but also the perfect dip to accompany them!
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