28 days without alcohol | A new territory to clear

Drink better, this is the title of a bible of sober (and half) mixology that Patrice Plante published last September. Trained chef, mixologist and founder of the company Monsieur Cocktail and the NOA range of non-alcoholic spirits, Patrice Plante invites us to question ourselves. That of the place occupied by alcohol in our lives and our view of what constitutes normal or acceptable consumption.

After ten years spent in an environment permeated by the scent of ethanol and the noise of shakers, the mixologist began to reflect on his own relationship with alcohol after receiving a diagnosis of hypertension four years ago. . “For me, it wasn’t a problem of consumption, it was more that alcohol took up a lot of space in my life given my profession. I wrote a book on gins, lots of tastings. I asked myself: could I find a creative, enjoyable way to drink in a more balanced way? »

The appearance of a selection of cocktails, beers, wines and non-alcoholic spirits on the menus of many bars and restaurants and on store shelves demonstrates the craze for sobriety.

In France, a neologism was even created by the Parisian sommelier Benoit d’Onofrio to designate his profession, that of offering food and drink pairings without alcohol: “sobrelier”.

Without opting for all-out sobriety, several mixologists and sommeliers are rethinking their relationship with alcohol. At the Les Cousins ​​bar at the Escad Quartier DIX30 hotel in Brossard, part of the team will once again participate this year in the 28 Days Without Alcohol Challenge of the Jean-Lapointe Foundation, while putting forward throughout the month from February its non-alcoholic cocktail menu. “We work in a bar, so we’re used to celebrating a bit,” emphasizes mixologist Maxim Béland, head of the establishment’s catering. We know that this is not something that should be done in the long term. Months like this are good for everyone. »

No alcohol, no compromise

This awareness among industry workers, coupled with an explosion in the supply of non-alcoholic spirits, syrups and tonics, has led to a refinement of the offerings of light or non-alcoholic cocktails. But how can you deprive yourself of this important ingredient or reduce its quantity without compromising on taste and texture? For Patrice Plante, the challenge was such that the release of his book, which includes 180 cocktail recipes, was postponed for a year. Because it is not enough to replace gin and vermouth with their non-alcoholic version to obtain a satisfactory Negroni.

However, alcohol has the property of retaining flavors, therefore amplifying the aromatic power of a cocktail and enhancing its texture, becoming more syrupy on contact with ice. To compensate for this lack of texture in a non-alcoholic cocktail, Patrice Plante uses the technique of milk clarification, a process that is apparently laborious, carried out over 24 to 48 hours, used to create transparent cocktails. .

But it is the buttery texture that this process achieves that interests the mixologist. To make this technique accessible, he simplified it to the extreme so that it can be done at home in around fifteen minutes. He made many other attempts, some less successful, such as a concentrated broth of burnt bananas, popcorn and butter to recreate the texture of whiskey.

For those who have a background in cooking, experimenting in this way is an opportunity to have fun. Maxim Béland agrees: “We no longer talk about mixing syrup with juice and ice. Now that we have real products to work on, it’s great fun. It’s the same as creating a mocktail, you do taste tests and you work on that. It’s no longer a burden. » At the Les Cousins ​​bar, the team turns in particular to infusions. “We had a non-alcoholic amaretto that tasted good, but something was missing. An infusion with coffee gave it a little bitterness, a good coffee taste that goes really well with the hazelnut. »

Lightness on the menu

For Patrice Plante, drinking better also means drinking less by reducing the level of alcohol contained in a drink. Some classic cocktails like the dry martini, cosmopolitan and margarita can contain up to twice the alcohol content of a standard drink (approximately 17 ml of pure alcohol per serving). It therefore revisits the great classics by offering lighter versions in alcohol which correspond to at most 75% of a standard consumption. It also offers original recipes containing between 15% and 75% of a standard consumption. A simple strategy for reducing the amount of alcohol in a cocktail is to replace some of the base spirit with its non-alcoholic counterpart and use a rich syrup or jam to achieve a velvety texture.

Light alcohol cocktails, also called “low ABV” (low alcohol by volume), are gaining popularity, particularly in the United States. In Montreal, the Bisou Bisou bar, opened last summer, focuses on aperitifs and cocktails with low alcohol content, or even without alcohol. “It’s a newer concept in Montreal, people are still adopting it,” says Grace Honsberger-Grant, manager of the establishment. But after the pandemic, many people have become more conscious about their alcohol consumption. I think this concept will become more and more popular. Over the last two or three years, we’ve seen a lot of bars based on the aperitivo open up in the world. »

There are several low-alcohol spirits on the Bisou Bisou menu, including sherry (sherry), vermouth and fortified wines. “We wanted people who want something light or non-alcoholic to have interesting, high-quality options made with fresh produce,” notes Grace Honsberger-Grant. It’s a great way to expand your repertoire and I think it makes you a better bartender and a better server if you can recommend something that’s a little different. »

Drink better

Patrice Plante

Editions La Presse

300 pages